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On The Runway
January 14, 2019

Etro & Kiton at Milan Fashion Week AW19


This season Etro recounted a dreamlike tale through an installation in their boutique via Monte Napoleone and Kiton focused on a comfortable relaxing wardrobe perfect for travel...

For AW19 Etro recounts a dreamlike tale through an installation conceived in the boutique of via Monte Napoleone.

The path transforms us all into dream-travellers-voyagers to fantastical lands in which the rules of empiricism are overturned. Mixing magic, dreams and poetry, Etro guides us through an enchanted forest bursting with flowers, fairies and elves, which animate the scene and the menswear collection.

The fairy’s flowers grow on the printed fabric jacket, while the bomber jacket with warm autumnal colours has been woven with seven magical silk threads that create a three-dimensional jacquard tale. The bark takes unusual shapes and colours on the velvet dressing gown with carnelian tones embellished with jeweled brooches, while the luxuriant foliage illuminated by the sun rays colours the blazer with bright verdant tones. The Etro Dream, in a vortex of Paisley, opens like a curtain on the back of the l coupé jacquard bomber jacket, taking us into a metaphysical imaginary that decomposes and reconstructs elements of apparent normality: welcome to the Etro Dream!

The garments are cosy, the soft trench coats rebuilt and destructured for a relaxed yet re ned t, while the trousers with side band hint at the urban vertical forest.

An archetypal space of myths and fairy tales, the forest is also the landscape where knightly adventures begin, where knights ride unicorns, meeting dragons under a full moon in a nocturnal landscape under the enigmatic gazeof Merlin the Magician. The fantastic scenery, obtained with a monochromatic gravure technique, embroidered on the jacquard bomber jacket with knit details.

The Kiton Fall/Winter 2019/20 collection stems from the need to offer Kiton’s male clientele a comfortable, relaxing wardrobe in keeping with their passion for travel – a wardrobe of garments that are easy to carry, fold into a suitcase and do not require a garment bag. By revolutionising its identity, the suit becomes unstructured and presents itself as a versatile garment which transcends its traditional connotation as “formal wear” and enters the world of “smart casual clothing”.

Worn with a shirt and tie during the day, or with a tone-on-tone t-shirt and sneakers for an evening cocktail, the Kiton suit is perfect for any moment of the day. Although in the collective imagination the coat represents a kind of austere elegance, Kiton has given this iconic garment a new twist and has brought it up-to-date, as in the UGO model, a must-have item of clothing with a soft, modern look.
The new Kiton jackets offer a wide variety of patterns and manufacturing processes, such as jacquard fabric, thanks to continuous developments in the “Pure Vicuña Yarn” project which reflects the company’s constant commitment to research and innovation in the field of fibres and tailoring.

The collection revolves around the quality of the fabrics – a cornerstone of Kiton ‘s philosophy – a crucial field of research and source of inspiration for conveying the company’s concept of style. The starting point for producing our fabrics are natural fibres, processed by hand, created exclusively in the Kiton woollen mill in Biella, where constant experimentation leads to new patterns, textures and mixtures of fibres. The iconic wefts and patterns of the historic archives, such as Prince of Wales and houndstooth, take on an entirely renewed appearance thanks to the unstructured nature of the garments.

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