ModusBPCM covered an array of shows and presentations across New York, London, Milan and Paris for AW20.
In New York we saw creative director Sophie Delafontaine use a spectacular location on the 25th floor of the Hudson Commons for Longchamp Fall 2020. The show pulled references from the 70’s – where sportswear, separates and culottes were signatures in their strong Fall collection. The brand’s famous Le Pliage bag was taken to extremes, shrunk into a mini and blown up, all of which paired well with various styles and the midi length that was echoed throughout.
London kicked-off at Preen by Thornton Bregazzi, a show which highlighted the contrasts between old and new, a renaissance of wide tailoring, bohemian-modern dresses and boyish suits. Working to further incorporate sustainability into their collection, Justin and Thea used suppliers that offer more sustainable alternatives whilst introducing a new up-cycled knit range of recycled cotton spreads. The 1970’s film adaptation of Daphne du Maurier’s ‘Don’t Look Now’ was the catalyst for this collection and inspired Thea and Justin to visit Venice as part of their research. The collection’s combination of gold leaf make-up, mosaics, Renaissance lace and a church hall in-the-round setting was complimented with a futuristic production of music and lighting, creating an all encapsulating atmosphere.
Rixo used it’s LFW presentation to launch its ‘see now, buy now’ collaboration with the House of Christian Lacroix – featuring a shake-up of its archive couture prints in signature Rixo silhouettes. We worked with Editorial Manicurist and Global Lead Educator of essie, Rita Remark, sourcing artists for the day to execute and create her polka dot designs, complimenting the collection for the day.
Next up – Erdem. Erdem’s Fall/Winter 2020 collection was inspired by “Cecil Beaton’s Bright Young Things,” an exhibition of the renowned British photographer’s work at the National Portrait Gallery in London. To complement the “dazzling and glamorous collection,” Rita Remark for essie created a sparkling, platinum-edged nail using a polish color reminiscent of Beaton’s silver gelatin prints.
Our final beauty destination; Olivia Rubin. Presented at the ICA, the collection, as always, displayed joyful designs in a daydream of rainbow colours. Again, our beauty team worked alongside Rita and manicurists on the day using ten Essie shades to create 80’s inspired POP coloured nail designs. The explosion of colours teamed with a 80’s soundtrack made us feel like we’d been transported back to a decade of Twiggy, Warhol and Duran Duran.
Next stop, Milan. For the Fall/Winter 2020 season, Plan C continued exploration of a signature, distinctive aesthetic vision, where discreet sophistication coexists with creative eccentricity for it’s presentation. Getting deeper in the definition of her personal fashion language, Plan C Creative director Carolina Castiglioni plays with special materials, rich colors and sharp cuts to inject an edgy twist into statement pieces, which are mixed & matched and layered for a unique look.
For the Agnona Fall Winter collection, Simon Holloway, the house Creative Director, looked back to the elegance and minimalism of the mid 90’s. The Agnona wardrobe for HER is very luxurious and features wonderfully refined details in every piece. Sustainability is a responsible choice for Agnona. Simon used undyed fibres, as in the natural shades of the cashmere goats hair cut in double face coats or knitted in a dress with bias ribs with a finer sleeve and camel hair for some of the pieces, and recycled cashmere for the aran-style sweaters. The Agnona wardrobe for HIM is the equal to hers: a collection crafted in exclusive noble fiber fabrics and yarns with a modernist sensibilism.
We then finished our Fashion Month journey in Paris with Andrew Gn. This collection was inspired by the 1976 cult movie “The Blue Bird” by George Cukor, and Medieval tales and mythologies from all around the world. Gn’s AW20 displays a series of comparatively austere, solid-coloured dresses, in sober black or white embellished with vintage handcrafted buttons and metallic gold accessories.