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On The Runway
February 28, 2018

Etro, Bally, Sergio Rossi, Agnona & Kiton at MFW


From Etro’s bohemian wonder, to Sergio Rossi's creation of the sr MILANO,
Milan Fashion Week saw some incredible collections this season

For AW18 Etro took a journey to the land of the endless horizon. For this collection, Veronica Etro found inspiration in the long shadows and dusty colourscapes of wide western landscapes wrapped up in the graphic sensibilities of European decorative arts. Bold patterns were inspired by the intricate art deco tapestries, the enamelled jewellery boxes and the colour blocking of Italian postmodern architecture. The collection exists in a cosmic prairie dreamworld unlocked only by Etro’s bohemian wonder. Watch the full show by scrolling down.

 

This season Bally was strongly transeasonal, with unisex charm and a continued sense of fluidity. The AW18 collection showcased loose, unstructured outerwear, layered over knitwear and zip tops in youthful selfexpression. It retained a fresh, young, sporty attitude with a synergy that follows SS18. Shoes played on the boundary between dress and casual wear, mixing sporty soles with leather uppers.

 

The Kiton AW18 womenswear collection focused on the combination of casual wear and tailoring. It emphasised a new concept of daywear in a collection that ensures comfortable, functional and practical garments. Based on the heritage of men’s bespoke tailoring, which has always been the distinctive feature of Kiton’s image worldwide, the womenswear collection placed meticulous attention on enhancing female proportions and the feminine figure.

Following the success of sr1, Sergio Rossi created a new must, sr MILANO. In terms of form, sr MILANO is an icon, rather than footwear. The structure resembles a sandal from Sergio Rossi’s ‘90s archive, with an austere and sharp line. The height is scaled down to a more modern and functional level. The squared heel becomes the key element, the common denominator of an entire collection. As for the aesthetics, sr MILANO pays tribute to the city of Milan and the glamour of its women, sophisticated, subtle, and yet impossible not to notice.

 

For AW18, Agnona‘s artistic director Simon Holloway paired hyper femininity with a noir mood, referencing the original 1982 Blade Runner with Agnona’s past from the same era. Pants, which came as cropped flairs or cuffed to soften the silhouette were paired with double breasted blazers, blousons and bomber jackets as tailoring. Dresses and skirts, in fully fashioned cashmere or merino wool, were knitted with an aumentata technique, where increasing the stitches allowed the flared skirt shape to form in one piece with no seams. Watch the full show by scrolling down.

 

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